Sew Make Do

Fabric Goodness

May 072012

Inspired by the blog In Color Order, and the author Jeni’s amazing ‘The Art of Choosing‘ series, I have spent the last month trying to build a basic fabric stash which will stand me in good stead for all of the quilting projects I have floating around in my head. The incredible 18 tutorials teach you everything you need to know including ‘folding’ (this is my favourite!), ‘organising your stash by color’, ‘color basics’ and ‘harmonising color schemes’.

Using these brilliant tutorials as a starting point, I have been trying to systematically fill the colour gaps in my fabric collection, to create a stash which covers the whole spectrum. I think I am now pretty much there. In fact, as the incriminating photo to the right demonstrates, I have already run out of room to house my growing collection. Unfortunately for my bank account, what this process has also taught me, is how many fabulous online fabric stores there are based in the UK for me to indulge my addiction. I thought it might be helpful to other burgeoning seamstresses if I shared my favourites with you, in the hope that you will also find inspiration from their gloriously technicolour pages.

Fabulous Fabric Shops

Backstitch - This store is fast becoming a firm favourite. All of my favourite designers are stocked together with some more unique ranges which aren’t available elsewhere. There are numerous fabric bundles which have been very thoughtfully put together and the range of sewing patterns available is second to none!

Eternal Maker - The largest range of patterned fabrics I have found in the UK, including all of the key designer collections as well as many more unusual ones. There is a particularly good range of quirky Japanese prints. The range of solids is also pretty extensive. My favourite part of the store is the search by ‘fabric colour & style’ feature which allows you pick out different types of designs (geometric, spotty, plain, etc) as well as colours.

Fabric Rehab - This is very cute website which has a wonderfully quirky range of printed fabrics. There are many smaller style prints which are perfect for stash building as well as ‘thrifty bits’ section which has some bargain basics. The fabrics are also organised by theme as well as colour, and I particularly love the ‘Birds and Bees’ theme with the numerous owl prints!

M is for Make - Buying fabric from this online emporium has become almost habitual for me. The website is beautifully simple with the fabrics as the main star. I have benefited greatly from the recent addition of the ‘search by colour’ feature as I seek to build up my stash. Delivery is amazingly quick and you can asked to be emailed when new collections arrive.

Raystitch - The oh so stylish Raystitch is the online presence of a very contemporary looking haberdashery, cafe and sewing school in Islington, London. I haven’t managed to travel across town yet and pay a visit in person, partly through fear that I may just want to buy everything. The designer bundles are ace and the new range of home dec fabrics is to die for.

Seamstar – The fun, colourful pages of Seamstar will always brighten your spirits. They have a lovely collection of linens alongside the more mainstream prints. There is also a good range of value solids. My favourite feature is the ‘colour match’ service which allows you to complement your prints with matching solids, thread and zips! You can also stock up on trimmings, thread and haberdashery essentials. Another bonus is the discounts offered for large orders over £125, together with a loyalty discount after your 12th shop.

Saints and Pinners – I have particular affection for this shop as the place where it all started. I discovered Cloud 9 prints when I was making a bag for my best friend’s 30th birthday and I haven’t looked back since. They have some lovely tonal fabric packs, as well as a great range of high quality solids and spots.

The Village Haberdashery - A truly beautiful website, thoughtfully stocked and stylishly presented. A brilliant range of pattern fabrics including key designer collections, which are ever increasing. I love the fabric stacks and the ‘build your own’ stack feature is both brilliant and unique. The range of Kona solids is also excellent for us aspiring modern quilters! There is also a haberdashery bursting with useful items for a range of sewing projects.

Hawthorne Threads - I did want to mention one other fabric store which is based in the US but being unable to find a range of fabric they don’t stock, I thought I would highlight it in case you are ever after a particular print. Beware the dreaded custom charges though – they will add VAT!

Lined Drawstring Bag Tutorial

Sewing No Responses »

Mar 012012

I recently struck on the idea of sewing some drawstring bags to solve a somewhat unusual problem. Having spent many a winter morning trying in vain to tell the difference between my black and navy blue tights in subdued light, I decided the only way to prevent the horror of arriving on the tube to notice a black skirt/ blue tights combo (yes, that has happened more than once), I needed a permanent separation solution. A drawstring back seemed like the most simple solution and gave an excuse to wheel out the sewing machine once again. After much trial and error, I have put together a simple tutorial which I hope will help solve a few more storage issues!

These ones are for storing my tights!

Step 1

Begin by cutting out your fabrics. You can pretty much make your bag any size you like. Your outer and lining fabrics will be slightly different lengths. In my example, the outer piece of fabric measures 11″ wide by 28″ long. I have used one continuous length of fabric which will be folded in half – but if you have smaller scraps you wish to use you can equally use two outer pieces sewn together. For the lining fabric, you will need to cut two separate pieces. My lining fabric is the same width as the outer fabric (11″ wide) but the two pieces are 12″ long (two inches shorter than the half length of your outer piece).

Cut out fabric pieces

Step 2

Assemble your three fabric panels as shown, right sides together, then sew using a 1/4″ seam. Remember to backstitch you seams at either end. Once you have finished sewing, cut off any loose threads and press the seams flat.

Pinned fabric pieces

Step 3

Fold the fabric in half, right sides together, lining up the seams as shown. Pin together, using the the pins to mark out a 4″ gap in the lining fabric which will be left open to allow the bag to be turned the right way out. You will also need to leave a 3/4 gap which starts 11 1/4 inches from the top of the outer fabric. Mark the gap using two pins as shown.

Pinning together your bag

3/4 gap

Sew the fabric panel together, starting at the lining end. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each stitching run including at either side of the 3/4″ gap to strengthen the seams. Use a 5/8 seam all the way round. Cut the corners of your lining fabric on a diagonal and if you want to, you can trimthe seam allowance with pinking shears. Do not trim the allowance at the bottom of the lining fabric as you will need to sew this closed in the next step.

Sewn with 3/4 gap

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Making a Patchwork Lampshade

Sewing No Responses »

Jan 032012

My patchwork lamp shade

I have recently started my own Etsy shop to sell my handmade lamp shades – SewMakeDo. I am currently experimenting with different types of fabric designs to broaden my collection and add some unique twists. My most recent idea is to combine my love of sewing with lampshade making through the creation of a patchwork lamp shade.

My inspiration for the patchwork idea is a beautiful collection of fabric I recently purchased from Raystitch - Savannah by Sara Morgan for Moda. The fabric bundle contains twelve different intricate designs in pink, purple and green soft pastel tones. My idea was to use strips of the fabric to create a vertical block patchwork which wraps round the lamp shade. I thought I would share the steps that I followed as inspiration for similar projects. If you feel don’t ready to make your own lamp shade just yet – the ones I have created are available from my Etsy Shop.

Materials

26 – 10″ by 1.5″ by strips of your choice of fabric – I would recommend choosing patterns with a light background and a small print as these will look best when your lamp is switched on.

20cm Drum Lamp shade Kit – to make the lamp shade itself, if you are experimenting for the first time I would recommend purchasing one of these kits which includes all the materials and instructions for assembling the lampshade itself.

Instructions

Step 1 – Cutting your fabric

My 12 different fabric strips

Always begin by ironing your fabric to eliminate creases – this will make it much easier to cut neatly!

Then, ideally using a Rotary cutter, cut your selected fabrics into 1.5″ wide strips by 10″ strips. You will need 26 strips to cover your lampshade.

I would recommend laying out your fabric strips at this stage to create your patchwork design. Once you are happy with your arrangement, collect your pieces together ready to sew.

Step 2 – Sewing the Patchwork Covering

This is the most time consuming stage of the process, but worth the effort to ensure a unique lampshade design.

Start by pinning your first two fabric strips together with the rightsides facing. Sew the strips together with 1/4 seam allowance, making sure that you backstitch at either end. I used my quarter inch presser foot to ensure a neat and even edge – I would really recommend purchasing one of these presser foots if you are likely to be doing more patchwork in the future. Repeat this process to create 13 fabric pairs.

Sewing the strips together

Once you have all of your pairs, you will need to press open the seam allowances. Then continue assembling your patchwork covering by pinning and sewing together the pairs into larger blocks i.e blocks of four, then eight etc. Make sure that you press the seam allowances as you join each block to ensure a neat finish. I would also recommend that your completed patchwork, starts and finishes on the same fabric as this is where you lampshade will overlap and join together.

Pressing the seam allowances

Once all of the strips have been joined together, you should have a neatly pressed patchwork block which is 26″ in length. I would recommend checking the length of the block at this stage to allow the for the addition of any extra strips as you will need a least 26″ to create your lampshade.

Step 3 – Assembling the Lampshade

Your lampshade kit contains the basic instructions for assembling you lampshade which can also be view here.

I also have a couple of extra tips which you may find helpful:

When positioning your fabric (step 3), check that you are happy with how the fabric will join once the lampshade has been rolled (allow for approx 1cm overlap in your assessment).
When cutting your fabric (step 8 ) allow for an extra 1cm of fabric beyond the lampshade backing to allow you to fold back the fabric at the end to allow for a neater finish – you will need to secure this folded back section with a strip of the double-sided tape.

Folded over edge

Be careful on step 7 to firmly press down the lampshade backing, particularly on each of the seam allowances to ensure a firm hold!
On step 9, you may need to fold the backing back and forth a couple of times before the plastic begins to snap – don’t be afraid to be quite firm.
Start rolling your lampshade from the opposite edge to where we have created the fabric overlap. You should place your double-sided tape (as shown in step 12) on to of the folded over fabric.

Rolling the lamp shade

When you start to roll the edges (step 16), it works best if you place your hoops about 10cm from the edge and then roll in reverse to help secure your rings in place.
Roll you lampshade slowly, checking the edges on either side as you go to ensure that you lampshade ring is as close to the edge as possible.
If you find the lampshade edge rolling tool a little flimsy, an old credit or store card is a good alternative.

Rolling the edges

When you reach a lampshade spoke when rolling the edges, cut a short slit in the fabric to allow you to tuck the fabric underneath.

Cutting the edge at the spoke

Step 4 – Your Completed Lampshade

You should now have your completed unique patchwork lampshade…

My completed patchwork lamp shade

Light on!

Transport Inspired Designs

Inspiration No Responses »

Dec 272011

I have a confession. I am the granddaughter of bonafide trainspotter. My dear Grandad did like his trains (he even had a vinyl record of train noises) and my brother and I spent many a weekend in our youth visiting vintage steam railways with him. I also think my Mum might like trains a little more than she would be willing admit!

Embarrassment aside, I think this has pre-disposed me to have an unusual appreciation of transport-related design. I have discovered that there are an amazing array of vintage and retro inspired collections out there, and I wanted to share a few of my favourites with you.

The Transport for London shop is a guilty pleasure of mine. Their Design Collection features a number of vintage and contemporary designs, nearly all of which I would very much like to own. I confess I do already have the placemats from their New London Skyline Collection as well as the plates from the Silhouettes of London Collection by Snowden Flood which I have mentioned in a previous post. I have also just treated myself to a Mini Moderns ‘Hold Tight’ tea towel.

New London Skyline Collection

: ‘Hold Tight’ Mini Moderns Tea Towel

Other objects with a distinctly retro feel which have caught my eye include:

Trellick Tower Tea Towel by People Will Always Need Plates

London Bus Blind Mugs

Michelle Mason cushion

I have been also very excited to discover you can know purchase your very own Underground sign or heritage rail sign, although I think you would have to be feeling quite flush to actually order one!

The London Transport Museum shop also sells a number of these objects, together with an incredible archive of Underground posters and artwork which chart the history of London’s growth throughout the 20th century.

Another source of transport-related artwork my Dad recently introduced me to is the Science and Society Picture Library which is the official print sales website of the Science Museum, National Railway Museum and the National Media Museum. I bought my Mum a Peak District Railway poster for Christmas which shows one of her favourite spots – Monsal Head - a now redundant railway viaduct which was on the route of the London, Midland, Scottish Railway.

I hope this short post has offered some inspiration to your inner transport geek – we are all one secretly, right?!

Judging books by their covers

Inspiration No Responses »

Nov 192011

My Cousin Rachel - Neisha Crosland cover

Whilst browsing in my local Waterstones a couple of months ago, I came across a copy of Daphne Du Maurier’s My Cousin Rachel on the ‘Waterstones’ Recommends’ shelves. The book caught my eye for two reasons. Firstly Du Maurier’s Rebecca is one of my all time favourite novels, yet I haven’t read any of her other works. Secondly because the book is a beautiful object in its own right, an old fashioned hardback with the most amazing cover design featuring Flamenco by Neisha Crosland. Of course, I couldn’t resist such temptation and handed over my pennies, happy in the knowledge that once read, this book would take pride of place on our new but largely empty bookshelves.

Intrigued by the book, I searched for the publisher Virago Modern Classics on my return home to joyfully discover a whole Designer Collection of novels featuring the work of well known textile designers including Angie Lewin and Lucienne Day. I now proudly have all five books in this collection, but I have to confess that so far the pleasure has come mostly from displaying them rather than reading them – much to my other half’s disdain!

My Books

A Game of Hide and Seek - Celia Birtwell cover

I was therefore very happy to discover recently that there is a second (well, first actually) Designer Collection, published in 2008, to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Virago Modern Classics. Virago were set up in the 1960s to publish books that celebrate women and I think it is a wonderful they have sought to celebrate classic women’s fiction by showcasing iconic textile designs. There are eight books in this 2008 collection with covers featuring Celia Birtwell, Orla Kiely and Cath Kidston amongst others.

I have already put in my order to Waterstones and am excitedly awaiting the postman. Definitely an early Christmas present to myself, or at least that it how I am trying to justify my splurge. I will post a picture pdate as soon as they arrive.

If the walls of my house could speak...

Personal No Responses »

Nov 182011

London County Council WW2 Bomb Damage Map - Hammersmith

My current interest in modernist design has largely been influenced by my house, which was rebuilt in 1950 following its destruction during the Blitz. Our first clue to its more unusual history was the rather large bolts that seem to be anchoring our walls to next door. The outside of our house is also slightly different to its Victorian neighbours with different brick work and nine panel sash windows which also allude to its more modern design. Intrigued to know more, one very, very rainy day last year, I trapsed all the way to the London Metropolitan Archive (LMA) to view the London County Council Bomb Damage maps. These are an amazing series of maps which chart the damage to properties throughout London in exquisite and colourful detail. They cover the entire adminstrative area of the then London County Council which is over 100 square miles. The maps are searchable online at the LMA and the physical maps themselves are available to photocopy in colour for a very small fee.

The maps show that our house was ‘Damaged Beyond Repair’ with adjacent houses being completely destroyed. It is likely that the damage was caused by Incendiaries rather than German V bombs but it does rather bring home the reality of the Blitz and its impact on people and their homes throughout London. My 60p A3 colour photocopy has now been framed and sits happily in our hallway giving all visitors a unique insight into the history of our house.

Bomb Damage Key

LCC Bomb Damage Map - Extract 1

LCC Bomb Damage Map - Extract 2

A pretty patchwork quilt

Sewing No Responses »

Sep 182011

My finished patchwork quilt

My bestest friend in the whole world is due to have her first baby any second now… In honour of the impending arrival, I set about making my first ever small quilt which I hope will be used to keep the little one snuggly and warm.

To make the quilt, I used all of the designs in my favourite Nature Walk range by Cloud9 which I purchased from the lovely Seamstar, together with one other remnant I had with some owls which matched the woodland theme perfectly.

Step-by-step Instructions

Step 1 – Cut out the fabric squares

The dimensions for my patchwork squares were 4″ x 4″ to make a final quilt that measured 31 1/2″ square. If I did it again I would allow for 1/4″ seam allowance, cutting out squares 4 1/2″ by 4 1/2″ to make a quilt that measured 36″ square.

I cut out nine squares from each of the nine fabrics using a fabric cutter.

Step 2 – Sew the squares together

Place two of the squares right sides together and sew using a 1/4″ seam. I bought a special 1/4″ sewing machine foot to make sure my seams were as accurate as possible.

My design was based on creating nine sets of nine square panels (3 squares by 3 squares). I sewed together 21 strips made up of three squares each and then joined three of these together to create nine square panels. I then stitched together the panels into three strips of three panels, before finally sewing the strips together to create the front on my quilt. I have detailed these steps below.

This is a very simple method of construction which you may want to vary for your own design.

Step 3 – Construct the quilt

Cut out your chosen backing fabric so it is approximately 1″ larger (33″ square) than your front patchwork panel. Then layout the fabric on the floor (wrong side facing up) and stick down the edges with masking tape to hold firmly in place.

2. Spray the backing fabric with 505 adhesive and lay the quilt batting on top gently, taking care to smooth out any creases. The batting should again be cut slightly larger than the finished quilt (33″ square).

3. Spray the quilt batting with more 505 adhesive and then carefully lay the patchwork panel on top (right side facing up). Once the newly formed quilt sandwich has dried, trim the edges of the backing fabric and batting to the same size as the front patchwork panel.

Step 4 – Quilting the quilt

As a beginner, I learnt that the easiest option when it comes to quilting is to ‘stitch in the ditch’ – which in other words means to sew along the seams. I did this along every vertical and horizontal seam.

Step 5 – Binding the edges

The first stage is to choose and then cut out your binding fabric. You will then need to cut this into 2 1/2″ thick strips. I cut mine on the bias (i.e at 45 degrees to the grain of the fabric) but does not need to be done in this way as there are not curves or corners accommodate.
Join the binding strips together to create four longer strips, which are just slightly longer than the sides of your quilt.
Attached the first strip to the patchwork side of the quilt using pins (right sides together)
Sewing the binding to the quilt using a 1/4″ hem
Repeat stages 3 and 4 on the opposite side of the quilt.
Now fold back the binding fabric so the right side is showing, then press
Attach the third and fourth binding strips to the remaining two edges of the quilt, again using a 1/4″seam. At each of the corners, continue the seam over the folded back binding on the first two edges.
Fold back and press all of the binding so the right side of the fabric is showing.
Then fold the binding over the edge of the quilt, onto the backing fabric and tuck the remaining fabric underneath the fold to create a neat edge.
Pin in place and sew in place by hand using a whipstitch.

Your completed quilt

Once all the edges have been neatly sewn into place, you will be left with your finished quilt. Happy snuggling!

My life with buildings

Inspiration 1 Response »

May 182011

A town planner by day, it would be fair to say I quite like buildings. In the process of decorating our house over the last couple of years (it needed a lot of decoration), I have stumbled upon three fantastic artists which now adorn my walls and cupboards, perhaps slightly more than my husband would like. Anyhow, I wanted to take this opportunity to recommend them to you all.

We Live Here

A lovely Sheffield based artist who’s artwork I first saw hanging on the wall in one the city’s best secondhand bookshops – the excellently named ‘Rare and Racy‘. The image in question was of the iconic Sheffield Cooling Towers by the Tinsley Viaduct which are sadly no more. But as a Sheffield girl (you may have guessed this part by now) I couldn’t resist and the print is now happily gracing the wall of my study, alongside one of the Russell Club in Manchester where Joy Division played some of their first shows (concession to hubby).

The artist in question, Jonathan Wilkinson, has also recently released a new print of the Trellick Tower in west London. As this part of the capital is now my home, I was very quick to add this to my collection – it is just waiting for a frame!

Last summer, I also commissioned Jonathan to produce an original print to celebrate a friend’s wedding. They were getting married in one of Sheffield’s more modern landmarks – the Millennium Galleries – and I thought one of Jonathan’s prints would be a fantastic momento. The result was amazing and greatly appreciated – it now hangs proudly in their living room.

People Will Always Need Plates

And don’t they just, especially if they look as good as these! I think I first stumbled on this fantastic company through the Clothkits website where you can buy a couple of their designs as a sew your own Skirt Kit. Again, I love their focus on modernist architecture which I know doesn’t appeal to all, but I think the way in which they represent the buildings together with their use of colour is amazing. I recently purchased the two plates below of Kensal House and the Trellick Tower which are going to take pride of place in our dresser just as soon as the new kitchen has been installed (3 weeks to go). I love the vibrant colours which pick up on a 1950s vibe.

Snowden Flood

Snowden Flood is the final artist I wanted to highlight. She is a London-based artist who specialises in urban and rural landscapes. In our house she is affectionately known as the ‘Bridge Lady’. Two of her fabulous plates from the ‘River Series’ are proudly hanging in our bathroom! I came across this as an idea in the Guardian Weekend magazine a couple of years ago when I was looking for inspiration of how to decorate the vast walls in our bathroom with something that wouldn’t be damaged by all the condensation. The somewhat retro answer presented to me was hanging plates on the wall. The blue/ green tones of the River Series work wonderfully in a bathroom setting and the river theme seems more than appropriate. Snowden Flood also produces a range of other designs and homewares which I would thoroughly recommend.

Simple iPhone Cosy

Sewing No Responses »

May 092011

I wanted to start with a simple project which hopefully lots and lots of you will be able to make use of.

After spending many hours on Etsy looking at all the different kinds of cover I could buy for my iPhone, I eventually decided the best option was to put thread to fabric and make my own. Thankfully there are already lots of helpful tutorials out there as a starting point. Having not quite found the right one, I have experimented to come up with my own simple step-by-step design which should result in a snug fitting cover/ cosy for your iPhone or smartphone just like this one…

Step 1 - Cutting your fabric

To make your cover you will need to choose an exterior fabric and a lining fabric. For my cover, I am using Cloud 9 Nature Walk which I bought from Fabric Rehab. My exterior fabric is ‘Moss Ocean’ and my lining fabric is ‘Clearing’.

In addition, for this version, I am also going to use some iron-on fleece interfacing (Vilene H 640) to make it super cosy. You can quite happily make the cover without the interfacing and I will show you an example of at the end.

Cut out two pieces of each fabric 6″ long by 4″ wide, together with two pieces of interfacing of the same size, to give six pieces in total.

Step 2 – Create the exterior cover

Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of your chosen exterior fabric.

Pin the exterior pieces right sides together.

Sew together along 3 sides with a 1/2″ seam.

Step 3 – Sew together the lining

Pin the lining fabric right sides together and sew along three sides with a 1/2″ seam, as above.

Step 4 – Sewing the covers together

Trim the seams and corners of both the exterior cover and lining (see right-hand side of image). Then, turn the exterior cover right side out (see left-hand side of image). Make sure to push out the corners fully – I know there are all sorts of special tools for this but I just use a pen (with the lid on of course!).

Next, put the exterior cover (right sides facing out) inside the lining (wrong sides facing out).

(If you put a ruler inside the exterior cover and use this to help wiggle it into the lining it works a treat!)

Sew a 1/2″ seam round the top edge to join the two covers together, but stop about 1 “1/2 short, to leave a hole in the seam that will allow you turn the cover right side out (see Step 5).

Take care to keep only the edge you are sewing under the foot - this can be quite tricky so go slowly!

Step 5 – Turning the cover right sides out

First, pull the exterior fabric out from inside the lining. The wrong sides will now be facing out.

Next, push the exterior fabric through the hole (this might take a bit of gentle tugging) so that the right sides of the exterior cover are now facing out.

Finally, push the lining fabric through the hole and into the cover, so that its right sides are now also facing out.

After this stage, everything may seem a bit crumpled but you can use your phone to help push out the bottom and the corners. I also find it helps the fabric to settle if you turn the cover inside out, and back again.

Step 6 – Finishing the cover

Carefully tuck under the remaining loose edges, and pin into place.

Edgestitch around the top to finish.

Voila!

You now have your own iPhone cover!

(Reversible!)

Variations

I have now made a few covers using this method, including one for my Husband’s Google Nexus phone out of some funky C60 fabric by Mini Moderns (available from Clothkits). The Nexus cover works with the same starting measurements as the iPhone cover.

(This Nexus S cover does not include any padding.)

Fabric Goodness

Fabulous Fabric Shops

Lined Drawstring Bag Tutorial

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Continue reading »

Making a Patchwork Lampshade

Materials

Instructions

Transport Inspired Designs

Judging books by their covers

If the walls of my house could speak...

A pretty patchwork quilt

Step-by-step Instructions

Step 1 – Cut out the fabric squares

My life with buildings

Simple iPhone Cosy

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